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2005 Polaris Fan Switch

Wiring up a fan for the 2005 Polaris is pretty easy. It has a relay so that the fan gets a true 12V with minimal effort from you. This will give you a switch on your pod that will turn on the fan on demand as long as the key is turned (i.e. it will not work when your quad is off). The fan will still come on normally when the ECM senses the temperature is too high so you get the best of both worlds. The purpose for using a diode in the circuit is that it prevents the "wrench" service light from coming on in the gauge cluster. If you dont use the diode the ECM will get ground and think there is a problem with the wiring hence the gauge illuminating the "wrench" icon. Here is the wiring diagram for the switch.
You will need:
-1/2 inch socket
-T-25 driver or bit
-SPST switch
-18 gauge wire
-soldering iron and solder
-diode (I used a 3 AMP rectifier diode from Radio Shack)
-heat shrink or electrical tape.

Remove the front storage box by removing the 4 bolts inside it and the 8 T-25 bits (4 on top rear of box, and 4 under the fenders). Once the storage box is removed you can take off the little hood under the 3rd light. You should now see this. The relays will be where the yellow circle is. You will now see two relays facing the front of the quad. The one on the left is for the fan. It should have 4 wires going into it (Red, Yellow/Black, Red/White, Orange/Black). You are after the Yellow/Black wire. Now since there is little slack here read on BEFORE you get to cutting! You will want to cut that Yellow/Black wire with plenty of slack on both ends. On Yellow/Black wire, the end going into the harness, you want to solder one the cathode (striped) side of the diode. On the anode (no stripe) side of the diode you will solder on the Yellow/Black wire going to the relay and a new wire that is long enough to be routed up into your pod. You will want to cover this up with either heat shrink or electrical tape. Put the front end back together the way it came apart. You will run the new wire up into the pod which you will need to remove the cover for. There are three phillips head screws holding the cover on. This wire you just ran into the pod will need to go to one side of a SPST switch (normal on/off). On the other pole of that switch you will need a wire running to ground. I used the screw on the bottom of the pod for a ground.

Easy Way To Remove Grips

Well, I used to cut off old grips or even new grips (OEM ones are terrible). I came accross this new technique in the High Lifter forums.
Using an air compressor with a blow gun attachment, you basically float the grips off. Put the blow gun in the hole at the end of one of the grips. Have a buddy (or your other hand) plug up the hole on the other grip. When you pull the trigger on the blow gun it will balloon the grips and they will want to fly off. You can carefully help them off. If you let one come off the hole to seal on that side will be pretty big. You can blow them both to the ends of the bars that way you still have that tiny hole. Ready to put them back on? Same thing....float them on!

Adjusting a Carb Air/Fuel Mixture Screw

The laymans way to adjust the mixture screw:
-Go to stock setting (lets say 2 turns out for an even number example)
-Fire up quad
-Turn the mixture screw IN until the idle starts to change or the idle gets choppy. Write down how many turns in you did. (example...we did 1/2 IN)
-Return to stock setting.
-Turn the mixture screw OUT until the idle starts to change or the idle gets choppy. Write down how many turns in you did. (example...we did 1 1/4 OUT)

Now the setting we are looking for is the halfway mark between the two extremes. So the low end of that is 2 - 1/2 = 1 1/2 turns out. The top end of that is 2 + 1 1/4 = 3 1/4. Since we are looking for the middle of that we can take the average (1 1/2 + 3 1/4) / 2 = 2 3/8. So 2 3/8 is the magical spot for the mixture screw.

Now keep in mind these numbers are not real, they are examples. Just find the stock setting and follow this example for the setting after your mods. The tricky part is adjusting it while its idleing. There is a specal tool to do this. Its not fun to do with your hands as its hot down there. For those looking for tools, here are two examples of tools.
Scroll down until you see "Motion Pro 90-Degree Carb Tool". Very pricy tool, but that is what you are looking for.

For a cheaper version for us laymen go here and scroll down until you see "Pilot Screw Adjusting Tool"

I am NOT saying to order from that place, it was the only place I could find pictures of the tool. Any local cycle shop should have these for sale.

Changing the Left Rear Bearing on a Honda

1. Put new bearings in freezer.
2. Loosen lug nuts.
3. Jack up back of quad and then brace frame with jack stands.
4. Remove left rear wheel.
5. Remove cotter pin and hub nut.
6. Remove the hub (it should now look like this).
7. Place a jack under the rear differential to support it.
8. Remove the lower shock mount. (It should now look like this).
9. Now you can remove the axle housing. The exposed axle should look like this and the housing should look like this.
10. After you clean out the housing you can remove the seal and bearing. I used these tools to get the bearing out and put it in a vise like this.
11. After the bearing is out get the new bearings out of the freeze and get a block of wood. The bearing will slide in a little bit. Then drive it in with the wood as seen here. Once its inside the housing you will need to use a screwdriver to drive it in the rest of the way. Be carefull that you dont drive it in too far or mess up the bearing.
12. Install bearing seal.
13. Install hub.
14. Install hub nut (101 ft/lbs) and cotter pin.
15. Install wheel.
16. Let quad down.

Since you are already cleaning the left side you can repeat the same procedure for the right side. The only difference is you will need to remove the rear drum too. While the entire housing is off you can take out the axle from the right side and clean it. When putting everything back together be sure to inspect all seals and replace them if needed.

Oil filters for the Grizzly 660

Yamaha: 5GH-13440-00-00
Fram: PH6017A
NAPA: 1358
WIX: 51358
AC: 2057

Changing the Grizzly 660 Clutch Weights

First you will need to remove the seat, right side panel, and floorboards. Next you will need to remove the belt housing cover. There are twelve 10mm bolts around the outside and two 10mm bolts in the center. Once you have all these bolts out take off the cover. Be careful with the gasket! This will expose the bearing housing. Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the bearing housing on. Next you have to loosen up the nut(22mm) on the primary sheave. The only way I have found to do this is with an impact wrench. Once that is loose put two of the 10mm bolts from the belt housing cover into the holes in the secondary sheave. This will spread the sheave and loosen up the belt. Then remove the primary sheave nut. You can now slide the primary sheave off the spindle and take it to your tool bench.

Now that you have the sheave on a flat surface, remove the 8 phillips head screws on the cover. Then you will have to gently ply the cover off being careful to not tear the o-ring gasket under it. Once this plate is off you will see a ton of grease. Go ahead and clean as much as you can out. This will expose the primary pulley cam. Lift this out and clean the grease off of it too. There are four sliders on there that you need to be careful not to loose.

You can now see all eight weights and another large ammount of grease. Take the wieghts out and set them aside. Clean the grease out of the primary sliding sheave. Then you will need to place about a tablespoonfull of grease in the slots where the weights sit. Then install the new weights into those slots.

Reassemble the entire assembly in the reverse order. You will need to torque the primary sheave nut to 85 ft/lb. Note that I could never tighten this nut with a torque wrench. I had to use an impact wrench again. This does NOT torque the bolt properly. Once this nut is torqued do not forget to remove the two 10mm bolts from the secondary sheave. When you do this the secondary sheave may not come together and the belt will still be a little loose. It will tighten up when you give it some gas. When you install the bearing housing again the shorter bolts go in the upper left and lower right holes while the longer ones go in the other two. Torque those bolts to 7.2 ft/lb. Once the cover is back on torque those bolts to 7.2 ft/lb. Now you can install the floorboards, right side panel, and seat.

Grizzly 660 Valve Adjusting Pages

• Page 1
• Page 2

• Page 3
• Page 4

Rubicon Reset Procedure

• Page 1

Retrieving Rubicon Service Codes

• Page 1
• Page 2

• Code list
• Code 2

Adjusting The Valve Clearance

Adjusting the valve clearance is fairly easy after you've done it a few times. This procedure will need to be modified slightly for different quads. You will need to remove some plastic to get to the valves. On both my Rancher and Rubicon I can removed the side panels and gas tank cover. Then I can unscrew the gas tank and wedge it out of the plastic. This beats removing the entire front plastic. After you remove the gas tank there is a peice or white plastic that will need to be removed also. The valve cover(Rancher - Rubicon) should be what you will see now (there may be more than one depending on the atv...my rubicon has 2 the rancher has 1). Now, go to the side of the quad that the foot brake is on and there should be a small circular piece of metal with a hex hole in it. This is the timing hole cover. Unscrew it and set the cover aside Now go back to the valve cover and make sure there is no dirt around the cover, you do NOT want any dirt in the valves. If neccesary brush any dirt away from them. Then unsrew the bolts to it and carefully remove the cover. This should expose the valves. You will now need to find what is called TDC (top dead center). Use the pull rope to move the flywheel. As you pull the pull rope SLOWLY look into the timing hole. You may need a flashlight. If you look in the hole you will see the flywheel. It will have some markings on it. You are looking for the "T" mark. You should two lines, then a "F" then a "T" then a break before you see them again. Now as you are looking for this also keep an eye on the valves. This is where a friend comes in handy. You should see things in this order:

exhaust valve opens (piston moving up in exhuast stroke)
exhaust valve closes
"T" in window (piston at TDC but on the wrong stroke)
intake valve opens (piston moving down in intake stroke)
intake valve closes
big break of nothing in window (piston moving up in compression stroke)
"T" in window (TDC)
big break of nothing in window (piston moving down in power stroke)

You want to have the "T" in the window on the compression stroke. This will take some time to learn which stroke you are in. Please note that you will see the "T" at what is not TDC. You DO NOT want the "T" when you are between the exhaust and intake valves moving. Again...this will take time to learn. Note that when I state that a valve opens this means that the valve if seen from above will move downwards. You will be pulling on the rope very slowly. You will probably shoot past the "T" many times!! If you go past the "T" by even a little bit...start over. Now you will need to loosen the locking nuts. After these are loose then you can slide the feeler gauges under the valves. You will need one feeler gauge for each valve. For the Rancher you need two gauges of .006 inches. For the Rubicon you will need 4 gauges, two .006 for the intake valves and two .009 for the exhaust valves. You can look at the side view to see where you will be putting the gauges. After all the feeler gauges are in place you can adjust the valves with a flathead screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the slot in the top of the gauge. Screw in to tighten and screw out to loosen. You will need to tighten the gauge so that you can pull the feeler gauges out but NOT push them in. Getting this down is an art form! Once you have the valve adjusted you will need to tighten the locking nut (leave the feeler gauges in their place). This is done easiest with a closed head wrench (metric 10 I think) on the nut while a screwdriver is holding the valve adjustment in place as seen a href="pic.php?image=service/valves/adjusting.jpg"); ?>here. Once you have it hand tightened you will need to use a torque wrench to get it torqued all down. IF YOU DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH THEY WILL COME LOOSE AS SOON AS YOU START THE ENGINE. Torque the locking nut to 12 lb/ft. Now check the feeler gauges again and make sure the the valve is adjusted like stated above. If they are out of spec you will need to try again. This usually takes 1-2 times to get it right. After ALL of the valves are adjusted you can now remove the feeler gauges. Now reinstall the valve cover and tighten the nuts. There were not any specs on these nuts in the service manual so I hand tightened mine. Then you will need to reinstall the timing hole cover and torque it to 7 lb/ft. Then put all the plastic back on and you are done! Now fire up the quad. If for any reason it sounds worse you were not at TDC.

NOTE: I have heard of people stating that when they got to the valves they were in spec. If in spec is when you can pull the feelers out but not push them in how could you tell if they are in spec since you couldnt put the feelers in? They are only in spec in my opinion AFTER you adjust them. Some of the pictures above were from the service manual which does NOT show a feeler gauge for each valve. I have always been told that you MUST have them so that is what I do.

How to Wire the Fan

I wanted to wire my fan so that I could run it whenever I wanted to but also have it kick on if I forget to have it on. On my Rubicon and on the Rancher this was acheived by the following process. (Please note that I have been told that this does not work on the Foreman.) Wire a positive wire from the battery to an inline fuse (use the same fuse size as in the fuse box... 15 amp I think). Then continue that wire and splice into the blue line on your fan. There isnt a whole lot of slack on that fan wire and it is in a terrible place on the Rubicon so this was a PAIN! Then splice into the green wire and wire it to a switch. Then off the other side of the switch run a wire to a ground (I wired mine to the battery ground). Now all you have to do is mount the switch. On my Rubicon I found the best place was that small piece of removeable oval shaped plastic on the lower pod were the key is. I just drilled a hole in there and put the switch in it. Underneath that you will have to cut some plastic out so the wires will fit through. I then used a rubber switch cover (from Lowes or Radio Shack) to make it more water resitant. With the fan wired this way it runs at a much greater speed than stock!

Honda Service Schedules

• Rubicon Page 1

• Rubicon Page 2

Adjusting The Throttle Cable For Hondas

Adjusting the throttle cable is very easy to do and should help with performance if it is out of adjustment. You will need to start up the engine and put the quad in neutral. It is VERY important that the quad be in neutral for safety reasons. Up on the right hand (throttle side) of the handlebars there is a small rubber boot. Slide the boot off the throttle adjuster. You should now see two metal pieces. The smaller one is the adjuster and the larger is the locking nut. Loosen the locking nut. You may have to use some pliers since it can be hard to grab with your hands. If you do use pliers be carefull not to strip the outside. Once this is loosened, you can then proceed to take out the slack in the throttle cable. This is done by turning the inner piece counterclockwise (this is from memory...you will know if you are going the right direction). Turn it slowly until the engine starts to rev slightly. When it starts to rev, back off around 1/2 a turn. Then hand tighten the locking nut. Now turn the handlebars all the way to both directions and make sure there is no reving of the engine. If there is, then you will need to give it a little more slack. Once it is adjusted properly, tighten up te locking nut and replace the rubber boot.

Spark Plug Stuff

• Slightly rich plug from my Rancher

• VERY rich plug from my Rubicon (This is from the factory)

Carb Stuff

• DynoJet instructions
• Rancher carb
• Jetting ranges
• Float Bowl

• Carb with float bowl off from Side
• Carb with float bowl off from Top
• Carb with float bowl off from Top
• Carb Jetting Tips

High Lifter Rubicon Fender Kit Instructions

• Fender kit instructions

Cleaning Front Drums on a Honda

Jack up the ATV and remove the tire. There are two small 8mm bolts that hold on the disc that you will need to remove. Then you should be able to slide the drum off. I had to gently pry mine off. The drum should be dirty and look like this. The brakes will also be very diry and look like this. Once the drum is removed, remove both the gaskets. One is a small almost square on inside the drum and the other is the dust seal on the outside of the drum. The dust seal is COVERED in grease to be prepared to get dirty. In order to get my dust seal off, I had to pry it gently. Use a can of aerosol brake cleaner and spray the brakes and drum until they are clean. I used up over 2 cans to get one side clean. The brakes should now be clean and look like this and the drum should look clean. A place where the dirt really gets stuck is on the brake adjuster. Be sure to really clean this. Now reinstall the dust seal back onto the drums. Now you will need to grease the dust seal like shown in this drawing. Really try to pack the grease in there! I used Bel-Ray waterproof grease for mine. Then put the smaller circular seal back in with a little grease on it too. Now install the drums back on and put the screws back in. You will now need to adjust the front brakes. Instructions for doing this are on this page!

Cleaning Rear Drums on a Honda

Jack up the ATV and remove the tire. There is a cotter pin inside the hub nut. Pry this back to a straight position and then pull it out. Be careful with this cotter pin because you can reuse it. Once that is removed you will need a 30mm socket and a breaker bar to remove the hub nut. Note that I said breaker bar. This thing is on there with 101 lb/ft of torque. A breaker bar will give you more leverage than a socket wrench will. A breaker bar can be purchased at Home Depot for around $20, and you can pick it up there since you will most likely be there to get that 30mm socket! It is best to have someone hold the ATV while you are trying to losen this. Once the hub nut is off, the hub should slide right off. Then there are six 8mm screws around the edge of the drum cover that you will need to remove. With these off, the drum cover should come off. You may have to gently pry a little bit to get it off. Be careful when prying because there is a small o-ring that you do not want to damage. Once this is off, the drum should now be exposed. The dirty drum should look like this, the dirty brakes should look like this, and the dirty drum cover should look like this. The drum will slide off the spline with a little tugging exposing the brakes. Take the o-ring off the outside of the drum so that you dont hit it with the brake cleaner. Now use the brake cleaner to clean the brakes and the drum. You can also use it to clean the drum cover but be careful to not spray the gasket with the brake cleaner. Once everything is clean, you can grease and reinstall the o-ring. Then grease the spine and reinstall the drum. Grease the gasket on the drum cover and reinstall it and the screws for it. Then grease the small gasket on the hub and reinstall it also. You will now need the hub nut to install. Tighten this to 101 lb/ft. It is important to torque this to spec! Now reinstall the cotter pin and the wheel. You should now adjust the brake lever and pedal. Instructions for doing this are on this page!

Adjusting Front Drums on a Honda

Pump the brakes a few times. Jack up the ATV. Remove the inspection hole plug. If you have aftermarket wheels you may have to remove the wheel to adjust your brakes. Line up the hole with one of the the adjusters like shown here. Using a screwdriver turn the brake shoe adjuster in the direction of the arrow until the brake pad touches the drum. Now this is difficult to see since it is such a small hole, but if you use a small flash light you can see in there. The brake pad will be either above or below the adjuster depending on which brake pad you are doing. An easy way to tell if the pad is touching the drum is to do a turn on the adjuster and then try to slightly move the hub. If it moves, then turn the adjuster one more and try again. If it does not move then the pad is now touching. Now you will need to turn the adjuster 3 clicks back (opposite the arrow). Then turn the wheel 180 degrees and do the other brake shoe in that drum. There are 2 in each drum and 4 total on the front of the quad. When you are done with that side put the inspection hole plug back in and do the other side.

Adjusting Rear Drums on a Honda

The only adjustment you can do to the rear drums is taking slack out of the hand and foot lever. This is done using the large wing nuts by the back drum. The top wing nut is the hand lever adjuster and the bottom one is the foot brake adjuster. Turn these one turn at a time and check for slack on the levers. Note that slack on the levers is not defined well in the manuals. Basically the slack area is the area in which you can move the brake levers before you hit resistance.